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Origins of Civilization

19-day adventure

Detailed, day-by-day itinerary for this adventure!
Accommodations are noted, and meals are coded as B=breakfast, L=lunch, D=dinner

Top: Remains of the Roman theatre at Myra. (Bill Roberson). Below: Turkish girl holding her young sister (Wes Walker).

Detailed Itinerary

Days 1-2

Depart USA

Fly from your home city to Ankara, Turkey. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to the hotel and checked-in. You'll meet the rest of the group for dinner.

Angora House or Sheraton Ankara, D on day 2

Day 3

Ankara and Cappadocia

Your introduction to Turkey begins with a short visit to the Mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Turkish Republic in 1923. You will learn how this charismatic leader rallied the country to rid itself of foreign domination in the aftermath of WWI and led Turkey into the 20th century. We visit the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations to learn about Hattusas, the Hittite culture—perhaps the very earliest of the western civilizations—and the artifacts uncovered at the Neolithic site of Catalhoyuk from 7,000 BC.

After lunch in the nearby historic Citadel, which overlooks Ankara, we cruise southeast in our air-conditioned, luxury vehicle, through rolling farmlands en route to the village of Uçhisar in Cappadocia. We stop to visit a restored caravansary that was used by ancient Silk Road traders as a "camel motel."

Museum Hotel, BLD

Day 4

Cappadocia

Early risers may take an optional, early morning hot-air balloon ride through these scenic canyons, over the "Valley of Love"! This is "photographer country," so bring lots of film!

After breakfast, we take a vigorous hike through this phenomenal landscape. We explore cave dwellings and learn how early inhabitants carved cave homes and churches out of the soft stone. This stone was created through the eons by successive volcanic eruptions that covered the landscape with ash.

We will enjoy a grand, well-earned picnic in a secluded glen. Later, we explore more of the area to visit an underground city.

Museum Hotel, BLD

Day 5

Cappadocia

We depart early for a brisk hike through the vineyards in the delightful Red Valley of Cappadocia. We will find the "secret" stone cathedral and climb into other beautiful and mysterious rock churches.

You will have an opportunity to get to know the warm and sincere nature of the Turks over a home-cooked lunch of typical dishes served in the simple village home of a Turkish family. There you may ask questions about local village life.

After lunch we visit the Goreme Open Air Museum, honoring the most important monastic center in the area. You may "take the afternoon off" to rest, swim, or wander into Uçhisar.

Museum Hotel, BLD

Day 6

Crossing Antaolian Plain, Konya

We're off early for a long ride across the Anatolian Plain, the breadbasket of Turkey. As we roll along the Silk Road, we appreciate the vast difference between our mode of travel today and that of 13th century Seljuk traders poking warily along by camel.

We make our first stop at Sultanhani Karvansary west of Aksary. Next we visit Catalhoyuk, regarded as the first urban center in the world (at 7000 BC). This very early Neolithic site was first discovered in the late 1950s and became famous internationally due to the large size and dense occupation of the settlement, as well as the spectacular wall paintings and other art that was uncovered inside the houses.

We stop at Konya to visit the museum tomb of the mystic Jelal ud-Din Rumi, or Mevlana, founder of the mystic Sufi order known for Whirling Dervishes.

After a picnic along the way, we continue on into the Taurus Mountains.  Near the town of Akseki, we leave the main highway to travel to a remote country inn for an overnight.  This simple but charming inn permits us to savor a quiet evening in the countryside, far from the populous beach resorts.

Ali Pasa Konagi, BLD

Day 7

Aspendus, Perge, Antalya, Termessos

We return to the main highway and turn south, heading to the Turquoise coast. En route we pass the town of Manavgat and continue until the turnoff to Aspendos (6th century BC). There we see a well-preserved aqueduct and explore the world's most complete ancient theater, built between 160 to 180 AD. The detail and splendor of this structure is truly breathtaking.

We go on to explore the extensive nearby ruins of Perge (also spelled Perga), formerly one of the richest cities in the area. We see the stadium (or hippodrome), the agora, and a huge block of etched marble used for a yet unknown game. We sit quietly, where elegant statuary once stood, and listen to our guide describe Perge's history. Many of these fine statues were recently excavated and are now displayed in the Gallery of the Gods in the Antalya Museum.

With more archeology on the agenda, we go into Antalya where we visit the impressive collections of the Antalya Archeological Musuem. By now, we've earned a good lunch!

We head to the mountains for a challenging hike to the Machu Picchu-esque ruins of Termessos. Termessos is set high on the hillside with a commanding view of the coastal plains.

We overnight at the Marmara Antalya, an ultra-modern hotel that overlooks expansive gardens that lie between the pool area and the beaches. Dinner will be in the multi-storied, glass walled dining room.

Marmara Antalya, BLD

Day 8

Phaselis, Myra, Kale, boarding the gulet

We drive south along the coast, stopping for a seaside picnic at the ancient site of Phaselis (690 BC) not far from the ancient site of Olympus. Nearby, the unquenchable Chimaera burns to this day. We continue to Myra to see impressive rock tombs, a fine theater, and the Church of St. Nicholas (Guess who got his start there!).

By mid-afternoon, at the nearby port of Cayagzi, we board the gulet that will be our home for the next five nights. We sail west to Kekova Roadstead to visit the hillside village of Kale, formerly known as Simena.

We explore the remains of a castle located above Kale—the panoramic view is spectacular. You see many sarcophagi from Hellenistic and Roman times. We stroll along the path through nearby Teimiussa, just east of the village of Uçagiz.

You may have a chance to try your hand at rolling out gözleme (börek), a very tasty, traditional, thin flatbread (it looks a lot like a flour tortilla) which is sprinkled with herbs and goat cheese and baked on what looks like an upside-down wok. Making them seems so simple, but you'll discover it's another story when you try to roll one out!

On the yacht our itinerary is flexible, respecting both the weather and our interests. When conditions are right, we put up all the sails and, like the ancient mariners, let the wind drive us onward. We have quiet times, good hikes, and opportunities to swim, read, and just hang out. This is a vacation! Each night we anchor in a sheltered cove or bay. On the aft deck, we will enjoy sundowners and dine under the stars.

Gulet, BLD

Day 9

Kas, Gemiler Island

We sail early, moving slowly along the submerged ruins of the sunken village, then turn westerly towards the charming village of Kas. After a leisurely shore visit we cruise to Germiler Adasi (Island) where the Knights of St. John built a castle and monastery along the route of the Crusades. We explore the remains of several churches and a monastery, and ponder the purpose of a mysterious covered passageway that runs for nearly a thousand meters along the spine of this narrow island. We overnight in its protective anchorage.

Gulet, BLD

Day 10

Kayaköy, Göcek,, Cleopatra's Bath

We have a vigorous hike to the village of Kayaköy that was deserted in the aftermath of W.W.I. Over a cool beverage and a warm gözleme, we'll talk of the post-W.W.I events that led to Kayaköy's abandonment. You may choose to remain on board to read, swim, or snooze instead.

After lunch we sail along the coast to visit the charming village of Göcek. After the visit, we may cruise on to the trailhead at Cleopatra’s Bath where we anchor for the night.

Gulet, BLD

Day 11

Lydae, Ekincik

We disembark for a scenic yet challenging morning hike through the pine forests to the mausoleum at ancient Lydae.

If you choose not to hike, you may remain on board as the gulet cruises around the peninsula to anchor. As you wait for the hikers at the end of the trail at Agalimani you may swim or just relax.

In the afternoon we cruise to a peaceful cove on the Bay of Ekincik where we anchor for two nights.

Gulet, BLD

Day 12

Caunus, Dalyan, Ekincik

This morning we disembark onto an African Queen-style put-put to motor past Iztuzu Beach, a long sand spit, now a protected loggerhead sea turtle nesting site, and meander through the silt marshes and cattails up the Dalyan River to visit the Lycian site of Caunus. On the way we will see the huge rock cut Lycian tombs carved into the cliffs. In Caunus we visit a Roman theater, bath, and agora dating from the 2nd century BC.

The hikers among us will head over the peninsula on a three-hour hike to the lovely Bay of Ekincik. Everyone else will go into the little village of Dalayn for bit of shopping before rejoining the gulet in Ekincik Bay.

Dinner will be on board or you may elect to dine ashore, on your own, at the quite fine restaurant, My Marina, overlooking the bay.

Gulet, BLD

Day 13

Bodrum, Halicarnassus

We leave the gulet and drive west through farmlands and pine-forested mountains, passing bee hives set up to collect the delicious pine honey. We soon turn off the main route and travel southwesterly to the Dorian site of Halicarnassus, in the popular seaside village of Bodrum. There we visit the 15th century Bodrum Castle, built by the Knights of St. John on the site of the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, formerly one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

At the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archeology, we view Late Bronze Age artifacts recently recovered from the 14th century BC shipwreck at Ulu Burun, near the town of Kas.

We have lunch in the lovely patio of the Kocadon restaurant. After a walk around the town, After a stroll through town, we check-in to the Marmara Bodrum Hotel for an overnight. Dinner is on your own.

Marmara Bodrum Hotel, BL

Day 14

Euromus, Didyma, Priene

We leave the Bodrum Peninsula and turn north on the main highway heading for a visit to the lesser known Temple of Zeus at the Carian site of Euromus. After a brief visit, we continue on to the Aegean coast to explore the magnificent Temple of Apollo at Didyma, that dates from the 3rd century BC. The gigantic columns reach far into the blue Aegean sky. The sculpted face of Medusa looks just like her photos that always make one think she might be having a "bad hair day!" The tiny tortoises crawling around these immense ruins provide sharp contrast. In its heyday, everyday folks and political and military leaders worth their salt would always consult the Oracle here before taking any major action.

The Oracle "went out of business"" in 385 AD when Emperor Theodosius I decreed that consultation with oracles was "not acceptable guidance" for Christians. Through the centuries, earthquakes, fires, and building material scavengers have reduced this magnificent structure to rubble. However, recent restoration activities give us some sense of its former splendor.

We continue north up the coast to the Menderes (ancient Meander) River delta and Miletus. We visit impressive Priene, an important Graeco-Roman site overlooking the Menderes River delta and the ancient Greek city of Miletus.

KoruMar Hotel De Luxe, BLD

Day 15

Ephesus, Selçuk, Istanbul

This morning we explore Ephesus, the largest Graeco-Roman site in the world. Entering through the Magnesia Gate, we stroll leisurely down Curetes Street past the Odeum (a small theater) to the reconstructed Library of Celsus. Along the way we peek into interesting corners and enjoy a private visit to view the rich mosaics inside the recently excavated hillside houses. Afterwards we mosey through the village of Selçuk to visit the museum displaying treasures from the Temple of Artemis and Ephesus.

We stop in the countryside for lunch before going on to the Izmir Airport and our mid-afternoon Turkish Airline flight to Istanbul, a crown jewel among cities, where we begin our wonderful days exploring legacies of Greek, Byzantine, and Ottoman civilizations.

We travel along the massive Byzantine walls that span the peninsula from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn. These walls both defined and protected Constantinople until breached by the Turks in 1453.

Time permitting we will pass through a narrow portal in the thick walls to visit the magnificent, restored mosaics and frescos of the Kariye Cami'i or Church of St. Savior in Chora. From there we head for the Four Seasons Hotel-Istanbul where we will luxuriate in the heart of old Istanbul, the Sultanahmet, for four nights.

Four Seasons Istanbul, BLD

Days 16-18

Istanbul

We keep a flexible schedule with respect to the order of events in our exploration of Istanbul. Weather, group interest and energy are all taken into consideration. Here are our best intentions and we usually do them all—and then some!

During the next three days, we’ll explore the Sultanahmet, visiting the Blue Mosque, Aya Sophia, and the site of the ancient Hippodrome where we see the great obelisk brought from Egypt by the Romans. We enjoy a cruise on the Bosphorus, and visit Taksim Square—one of the highest points in Istanbul. We stroll down Istiklal Caddesi, a historic commercial and residential street open only to pedestrians and its cute little red trolleys. For a sweeping 360° view of Istanbul, including the Asian side, we climb the Galata Tower, built by the Genoese in 14th century.

We drive through an old gate in the triple Byzantine wall to visit the Kariye Cami’i or Church of St. Savior in Chora, renowned for its magnificent mosaics and frescoes. We will explore Topkapi Palace, the seat of the Ottoman Sultans for 400 years, and visit the Suleymaniye Cami’i—a vast religious and educational complex built for Suleyman the Magnificent by the great Turkish architect Sinan.

In the Spice Bazaar, we will find a cacophony of sights and sounds as we stroll through its warren of passages. The marvelous Rustem Pasha Mosque, located in the heart of a bustling marketplace, is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Sinan.

We’ll take you through the Grand Bazaar where you’ll have some time on your own to shop, visit the splendid Archeological Museum, Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, the Mosaic Museum, have a Turkish bath, or just wander around savoring the aromas and sights.

Four Seasons Istanbul, BL, D on day 17

Day 19

Depart for home

Transfer to the airport with check-in to your homeward bound flight, unless you are remaining for more adventures.

B