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Birding Galapagos with WINGS

2008 Narrative

by Rich Hoyer

Top: "Lava" Heron on Santiago Island. (Richard Polatty)

If the Sword-billed Hummingbird had been the only bird we saw on our first day out of Quito, it would have been worth the trip. Whether perched with the bill pointed skyward, hovering at a distance to maneuver its bill into the feeder, or exhibiting an impossible profile in fly-bys, this bird simply must be seen to be believed. But we also saw or heard an additional 39 species, among the more memorable ones Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Blackish Tapaculo (hopping about in the open, against all expectations), Golden-bellied Grosbeak, and another six species of hummers. Tantalizing was hearing distant Andean Guans, Speckle-faced Parrot (the local subspecies known as White-capped Parrot), and Chestnut-naped Antpitta. Everyone’s luggage had arrived on the time, so this hedge-day was icing on the cake.

After an amazingly hassle-free check-in, we were on our flight to the Galápagos, and by early afternoon we were seeing Elliot’s Storm-Petrels, a few Galapagos Petrels, and dozens of other seabirds as we motored to our first island, South Plaza. Land Iguanas, Lava Lizards, giant Opuntia cacti, and fearless Swallow-tailed Gulls and Galapagos Sea Lions were a taste of what was to come during the week, and we took about 3 hours to cover about a half-mile of trail. The light was gorgeous, and a lot of megapixels had already been uploaded by the end of this first afternoon.

We spent a full day on one of the more memorable islands, Genovesa, where we had the trails all to ourselves and were able to linger at each and every highlight, including Sharp-beaked and Large Ground-Finches, many Galapagos Doves, and nesting Great Frigatebirds and Red-footed Boobies. After our first amazing snorkeling (where a huge Green Sea Turtle and a Moorish Idol were highlights), we were blown away by the unbelievable spectacle of countless Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrels against a backdrop of hundreds of diving boobies. A Short-eared Owl was a good find here, and we watched it make a failed attempt to catch a storm-petrel.

Our first seawatching came as we departed on our longest journey between islands. We had begun to familiarize ourselves with the Band-rumped Storm-Petrels when, just at sunset, two delightful White-faced Storm-Petrels danced in front of the bow.

Awaking in Tagus Cove after a night of rough seas, we were delighted to find Galapagos Penguins swimming next to the boat. We later saw a few more, as well as a pair of Flightless Cormorants next to our tricky landing. Dominating the hike up to the overlook were baffling numbers of Darwin’s finches—mostly Small Ground-Finches but with plenty of Mediums and even a few Larges; males in full breeding plumage were singing and chasing, and flocks of females and immatures were everywhere. As confusing as always, a few individuals defied being pigeonholed into species.

Striped Saddlebags (the dragonflies), both species of blue butterflies, Galapagos Longtails (the brown skippers), and many Lava Lizards were also along the trail. This day’s snorkeling highlight was undoubtedly the flock of about 15 penguins that swam past beneath us, but the diversity and beauty of the fish, urchins, and starfish were wonderful as well.

Staying on the boat was far from unproductive, too, with such sights as a frigatebird stealing a long eel from a cormorant, then losing its grip and dropping the slippery fish into the water. In the afternoon we saw the sprawling masses of the largest of the Marine Iguanas, were awed at the Lava Cactus (Brachycereus nesioticus, member of an endemic genus), and saw one Flightless Cormorant nest. The best critter of the day, though, was a Fernandina Snake seeking shelter in the scattered bushes where the sand met the lava.

Motoring towards the next day’s destination we had our best seawatching (no surprise in these cooler, upwelling waters), which included several White-faced Storm-Petrels, a single Waved Albatross, hundreds of Galápagos Shearwaters in feeding frenzies, and glimpses of a baleen whale that was probably a Bryde’s.

Our walk on Santiago Island at Puerto Egas was one of our most relaxed. Here on the rocky shoreline we had Semipalmated Plover, American Oystercatcher, ridiculously tame Lava and Yellow-crowned Night-Herons, and fun tidepools and lava caves with dozing Galapagos Fur Seals. The swarms of fish made the snorkeling here very exciting, as did the chance to dive under an underwater lava bridge. The afternoon was spent on the leisurely walk up the steps to the most famous view in the archipelago, from atop the peak of Bartolomé. Our motoring eastward began early enough to allow for more seawatching, dominated this time by many mobula rays and a brief but spectacularly colorful Dolphinfish leaping out of the water in pursuit of flying fish.

After spending the night peacefully anchored just north of Baltra, we made a pre-breakfast excursion on North Seymour Island to walk among the Blue-footed Boobies and both species of frigatebird. It was interesting to note that the Great Frigatebirds were further along, many with larger young, and that the Magnificents were still building nests, with only a few very young chicks in evidence. After breakfast we made our way to the channel between Baltra and Santa Cruz, where a bus awaited us. Just below the line of mist enshrouding the highest elevations, we took a walk up a road above the red cinder quarry, where numbers of finches came in to our pishing. We saw Small Tree-Finch almost right away, but Woodpecker Finch took a bit more time. Along the way were many butterflies, moths, grasshoppers (including the Galápagos Flightless Grasshopper), wild chilis, wild tomatoes, and tiger’s egg gourd, all of which reflected the abundant rains earlier in the year.

On the way to look for tortoises, we had a couple of Paint-billed Crakes run across the road in front of the bus. Walking down the trail, someone spotted two more skulking under a tree, and all eventually had great views. After seeing a couple of real wild Giant Tortoises on a private farm (like the Swordbill, they have to be seen to be believed), we visited the Darwin Research Center, where work is being done to reestablish the tortoises on other islands. There was a short time for shopping in town before we boarded our boat, which in the meantime had relocated to the bay at Puerto Ayora.

A very full day awaited us at Floreana Island. The first stop at Punta Cormorán was at the colony of American Flamingos (a species recently split from the Old World’s Greater Flamingo), where we also saw Black-necked Stilt and Dark-billed Cuckoo, which perched below us for scope views as we listened to our local guide tell us about the mysterious saga of the Ritters and Wittmers on Floreana.

At the nearby beach, several stingrays allowed close approach. Then we motored around tiny Champion Island, eventually having great views of Floreana Mockingbirds before we went snorkeling among huge schools of colorful and silvery fish, a rare Hawksbill Turtle, and rambunctious sea lions. We made a very quick stop at Post Office Bay before continuing to Puerto Velasco Ibarra, where after a little delay we were on our way to the highlands. Right away we had a Medium Tree-Finch, with a good comparison to Small Tree-Finch, and we escaped any real rain the rest of the afternoon as we explored the island’s water source. The barbecue dinner this evening was one of the best of the tour.

Another calm night on the sea was welcome before we disembarked for a stroll on the beach of Gardner Bay, at the eastern end of Española, where we immediately found the very large-billed Large Cactus-Finch. The local subspecies fusca of Warbler Finch was also common here, and we almost had to be careful not to step on the Española Mockingbirds. After some amazing snorkeling, where Red-lipped Batfish, a Purple Seastar, and two Moorish Idols were memorable, we disembarked for the grand finale of the cruise, the seabird colony of Punta Suárez. Seeing so many Waved Albatrosses—flying over land, chicks like gray Gonzo muppets, courting “teenagers” too young to breed, and birds taking off from the edge of the windy cliffs just feet away—was a magical experience. Galápagos Hawks were conspicuous here, and we watched the curious but strangely silent mobbing of one by more than a dozen finches, mockingbirds, and even a dove, while later we even had the lucky opportunity to watch a pair mating. Like so many places on the islands, it was as if the birds never even noticed our presence.

Our attempt on the post-tour extension to see San Cristóbal Mockingbird were thwarted by a presidential visit, but we took advantage of the extra time on Santa Cruz Island to find Large Tree- and Vegetarian Finches, while concentrating on getting looks at Galápagos Rail. It was a very slippery walk, thanks to all the recent rain, but we were eventually treated to extremely close rails that snuck across an opening in the ferns several times. We also had rare views of the endemic Galápagos Darner, one of very few dragonflies known from the islands, and visited a new habitat, the Miconia highlands. On the final morning of the extension, our local guide took us to see a Vermilion Flycatcher, a species whose population here is rapidly dwindling. One last attempt to pad the list was made with a pair of roosting Barn Owls—just as unconcerned by our presence as all the other birds—before we made our way to the airport for the flight back to Quito.

An incredible natural history experience more complete than possible almost anywhere else, a superb boat crew and stellar local guides, and a congenial and truly appreciative group of participants made for a wonderfully successful first WINGS charter to the Galápagos.

- Rich Hoyer

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